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Victorian Style Jacket for 18-inch Dolls
This tutorial explains how to embroider and assemble the files from the Victorian Style Jacket for 18-inch Dolls set. This jacket is designed to fit 18-inch dolls with a soft body, such as American Girl, Our Generation, My Life As and similar dolls.

The the designs that make up the jacket feature a floral border motif. There are additional border designs that come in the set, which can be used to embellish a skirt, blouse or an apron.
2 dolls in finished historical jackets with embroidery on bodice and sleeves.


For the jacket you will need :
  • embroidery threads, either polyester or rayon , (you choose the colors),
  • about 1/2 yard of solid-colored light- to medium-weight fabric, we used medium-weight linen/polyester blend for the oatmeal jacket and light corduroy for the brown jacket;
  • small amount of lighter weight fabric (we used batiste and light-weight polyster silk) for the lining of the bodice,
  • light-weight cut-away or tear-away embroidery stabilizer,
  • small sew-on hooks and eyes,
  • satin or cotton bias tape in a color matching either the fabric or the embroidery thread;
  • chalk or graph pencil,
  • small rotary cutter or scissors,
  • sewing pins,
  • iron,
  • #12 universal needle,
  • fray check glue.
Embroidery:
Upload the files from the set into the embroidery machine. Stabilize and hoop your fabric tightly. Embroider the files one by one.
Cut them out along the outer short running stitch.
Stitch-outs of the jacket files on corduroy

The inner, longer, running stitch shows the seam allowances. Remove the excess stabilizer.
Stitch-outs of the jacket files on linen
Using the stitch-outs as templates, cut the lining for the 2 front and 2 back parts.
Cut out the parts for the lining.
Assembly:
With face sides together, stitch the the central seam on the back. Repeat for the lining. Notch the seam allowance as shown. Press the seam open.
Sew the central seam on the back.

With right sides together, sew the shoulder seams. Repeat for the lining. Press the seams open.
Sew the shoulder seams and press them open.

Fold the lower edge of the back part 1/4" back and press.
Fold the lower edge of the back part 1/4" back and press.

On the lining, stay-stitch the armholes with 1/4" seam allowance. Clip the curves, fold the edges 1/4" back and press.
Clip the curves, fold the edges 1/4" back and press.

Stay-stitch 1/4" away from the edge along the hem of the back part, fold and press.
Staystitch , fold and press the hem of the back part.

Finish the sleeve edge with bias tape.
Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches along the sleeve head.
Finish the sleeve hem with bias tape

With right sides together, pin the sleeve to the bodice, matching the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam. Pull the gathering threads of the sleeve cap and distribute the gathers evenly.
With right sides together, pin the sleeve to the bodice

Stitch. Seam allowance is 1/4". Remove the gathering threads. Clip the curves. Press the seam allowance to the shoulder. Repeat for the other sleeve.
The sleeves attached to the bodice.

With right sides together, pin the lining to the jacket along the neck and front opening. Align the lining at shoulder seams.
Stitch, starting and finishing 1/2" from the sides of the front parts.
With right sides together, pin the lining to the jacket along the neck and front opening
Clip the curves. Turn the right side out and carefully press the seams so that the lining doesn't show up.
Press the seams
Keeping the lining out of the way, right sides together, fold the jacket and match the sleeve underarm seams and waistline. Align and pin the edges.

Stitch. Make a notch at the waistline. Press the seam open. Repeat for the other side.

In the same way, sew the sides of the lining. Press the seam open.
Stitch the seides together.

Hand-stitch the lining around the armholes and the hem to the jacket.
Put the jacket on a doll, mark the placement of the hooks and eyes. Please note that for correct fit you need to put the jacket on a blouse or chemisette. Sew the hooks and eyes in place.
The hooks and eyes are sewn on to the front opening of the jacket.

Have fun!
A doll in brown cordiroy jacket with embroidered bodice and sleeves. Side view.

A doll in brown cordiroy jacket with embroidered bodice and sleeves. Back view.
A doll in linen jacket with embroidered bodice and sleeves. Front view.

A doll in brown cordiroy jacket with embroidered bodice and sleeves. Front view.


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