A Regency style dress with embroidery for a 18-inch doll

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A Regency Style Dress for 18-inch Dolls

This tutorial guides you through creating a Regency Style Dress for 18-inch Dolls using sewing and machine embroidery techniques. You’ll learn how to construct a historical dress and embellish it with elegant embroidery designs. The project combines classic sewing methods with detailed machine embroidery to craft a period-inspired outfit for dolls like American Girl. It’s suitable for those with some sewing and embroidery experience who enjoy historical crafts. Follow the steps to make a beautiful dress perfect for doll displays or play.

This dress is designed to fit 18-inch dolls with a soft body, such as American Girl, Our Generation, My Life As and similar dolls.

We used 2 embroidery designs from the set Colonial Formal Dress for 18-inch dolls.

A 18-inch doll in a finished dress with embroidery on bodice and skirt.

For the dress you will need :

embroidery thread, either polyester or rayon , (you choose the color),
about 1/2 yard of solid-colored light-weight fabric, such as light-weight cotton, cotton-polyester blend, silk, etc.,
lighter weight fabric (we used batiste) for the lining,
light-weight no-show embroidery stabilizer,
either sew-on snaps or ultra thin Velcro tape,
chalk or graph pencil,
small rotary cutter or scissors,
sewing pins,
iron,
#12 universal needle,
fray check glue,
printer and paper.

Patterns:

Download the template file for the dress. To open and print the template, which is a PDF file, you will need Adobe Reader or a similar program. Adobe Reader is free to download and install.

Template Download (PDF file)

Print out the templates and cut them out.
Note: Seam allowance of 1/4" is included in the templates.

The Bodice:

Embroidery:

For the bodice we used the smallest design from the Colonial Formal Dress for 18-inch dolls.

Hoop the fabric tightly and embroider the design.
Cut away the excess stabilizer.

Cutting:

Position the paper template of the front on one of the stitch-outs. Trace and cut out.

Use the templates to cut out the back and the lining.

Assembly:

With right sides together, pin and sew the shoulder seams. Press them open. Repeat for the lining.

Bodice and lining with sewn shoulder seams.

Staystitch along the armholes of the lining.

With right sides together, pin the bodice lining to the bodice along the neck and back opening.

Pin the bodice lining and bodice together along the neck edge and back opening.

Stitch along the edges.

Cut the corners and clip the curves, being careful not to cut through the stitching.

Turn the working piece right side out. Take your time to straighten all corners and lines. Press.

Sleeves

Using the paper template, cut 2 sleeves and 2 cuffs. Please note that the cuffs should be cut on bias. Alternatively you can use a bias tape of matching color.

Sew 2 rows of gathering between the gathering dots on the sleeve cap and hem at a scant 1/4".

Pull the gathering threads on the hem of the sleeve and, with right sides together, pin a cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Distribute the gathers evenly.

Pin the sleeve cuff to the sleeve's hem.

Topstitch in place, seam allowance 1/4".
Remove the gathering threads.

Fold the cuffs to the wrong side and handstitch in place.
Finish the sides with zig-zag stitch or on a serger.

Fold the lining out of the way. With right sides together, pin the sleeve to the bodice, matching the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam. Pull the gathering threads of the sleeve cap and distribute the gathers evenly.

Stitch. Seam allowance is 1/4". Remove the gathering threads. Clip the curves. Press the seam allowance to the shoulder. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Both sleeves attached, right side view.

Bodice with the sleeves attached. Right side.

With right sides together, fold the lining out of way, pin from sleeve edge to side bottom. Stitch. Repeat on other side. Press the seams open.

Stitch from the sleeve edge to side bottom. Seam allowance 1/4".

Fold the lining to align the sides, right side together. Stitch the sides. Press the seams open.

Fold the lining back. Clip the seam allowance of the armhole, taking care not to cut through the stitches.

Tuck the seam allowance inside. Handstitch the lining to the sleeve around the armhole.

Tuck the seam allowance of the lining around the armhole and hanstich in place.

Skirt

For the skirt, you will need 4 stitch-outs of a big design.
Make the stitch-outs and using the paper template, cut out 4 parts of the skirt.

Using zig-zag stitch or serger finish all sides of the skirt parts.

Sew the sides together, seam allowance slightly less than 1/2", and press the seams open.

Using the skirt as a template, trace its outline on the lining fabric.

Cut the lining out.

Press the back opening sides 1/2" to the wrong side.
Pin the skirt and the lining wrong sides together.

Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches along the waist edge between the folded side edges.

Sew 2 rows of gathering stitches along the waist edge.

With right sides together, match the center of the bodice front with the center of the skirt. Pull up the gathers to fit the bodice. Pin in place.

Be careful to line up the folded skirt edge and the bodice opening.

Stitch. Remove all gathering threads.

Fold the lining of the bodice back. Fold its raw edge 1/4" to the wrong side to cover the stitches. Baste. Attach the skirt by hand.

Fold the lining out of way. Align, pin and stitch the back seam, seam allowance 1/2", starting from the hem and finishing 2 1/2" before the waist line.
Repeat for the lining.
Press the seams open.

Finish the raw edges of the skirt and overlay together.

Fold and press the hem of the skirt 1" on the wrong side. Finish the raw edge with zig-zag or on a serger. Sew the hem in place by hand.
Repeat for the lining.

Put the dress on a doll, mark the placement of the snaps. Sew on the snaps.